Oozing 1920’s glamour, the Hotel Esplanade Zagreb is a cultural historic icon of Croatia’s capital. The place to see and be seen, in the words of its General Manager Ivica Krizmanic, “If there’s one hotel in Croatia that everyone has heard about, it’s the Esplanade.”

We had the pleasure of speaking to Ivica, to learn more about what Luxury Gold guests can expect from a stay at the Esplanade, and discover what it is the secret to running such an exceptional hotel.

For travel inspiration: Croatia destination guide

Orient Express origins

“The reason why this caliber of hotel was first built in the city was due to the Orient Express, which was passing through Zagreb,” Ivica explains. “In the 1920s, it was necessary to have an exceptional five-star hotel to accommodate the train’s high-society passengers. The Esplanade hotel was built in two years, and it’s been something special from the first day it opened in 1925.”

Designed in the Art Deco style by architect Dionis Sunko the Hotel Esplanade Zagreb quickly became a symbol of luxury and elegance in the city. A full refurbishment in 2004 elevated the interiors and amenities to new heights. “We had a great architect and interior designer who ensured that the Esplanade spirit stayed intact,” says Ivica. “The design really blended together the history with the modern design from today’s era.”

Stay at the Esplanade Hotel Zagreb on Croatia & The Dalmatian Coast

It’s all about love and passion

“My father actually worked here before me, for 30 years. He’s the reason why I am here,” Ivica tells us. “In 1992, as a student, he asked me to help out. It was just for a month as a doorman, because they needed some extra staff, and that is where it all began. I was immediately in love with the hotel and have been here ever since.

“For me, the secret to running such an exceptional hotel is love and passion. This is something that it’s necessary to have for the Esplanade because the hotel deserves people who are dedicated to the Esplanade spirit. For all of us here, this is not just a hotel, this is more of an institution. So, for us to work here is something much bigger.

“The Esplanade is a synonym for luxury and good service. People widely connect the hotel with something special. Numerous times I have been in other establishments and have overheard people say (maybe in response to a complaint) ‘you know this is not the Esplanade, Sir.’ It sets the standard.”

You may also like to read: Travel Concierge Sharon, on the experience that awaits when you visit Croatia

Exquisite rooms

With its 208 rooms and suites, offering stunning views of the city, keeping everything running perfectly at the hotel Esplanade Zagreb is no small task. When we ask how many staff Ivica is responsible for, he tells us that “I have some 170 colleagues depending on the time of year, but we try to do this business with a homely, family feeling. So, I consider it to be that I work for them.

“The rooms are designed in a sophisticated Art Deco style, with all the modern touches needed for today’s travelers. They are all very welcoming and cozy, to make you feel at home. We have marble bathrooms with heated floors, the perfect place to relax and unwind.”

Sumptuous beds, stunning city views and first-class room service complete the picture. Guests can also benefit from the hotel’s exclusive Health Club, offering a range of range of therapies to de-stress, replenish and revitalize.

You may also enjoy: 9 Reasons to visit Croatia & the Dalmatian Coast

Exceptional dining

“I spend lot of time testing the food in the restaurants,” Ivica tells us, an important yet not undesirable part of his role as General Manager. From ‘high society-inspired dining to modern Mediterranean chic’ the Esplanade’s award-winning restaurants are worth a booking in their own right, with Executive Chef Ana Grgić Tomić at the helm.

Considered one of Zagreb’s finest, Zinfandel’s Restaurant combines the best local ingredients with a broad Mediterranean inspiration. “Here you can see a more Mediterranean style with modern food,” says Ivica, “with local specialties like sea bass baked in sea salt, Istrian truffles or steak tartar.”

Or for ‘seductive French cuisine’ Le Bistro celebrates a wide range of seasonal local produce, and also one particularly famous dish. “We have one signature dish – actually it’s a local specialty but this recipe is exclusive to the hotel – the legendary Esplanade Štrukli,” says Ivica. “It’s a baked pastry, made from thin sheets of dough, filled with fresh cottage cheese with cream. It’s sounds simple, but it’s very tasty and people really love it.”

“We change the menu in both restaurants three or four times a year, reflecting the seasons. You’ll see a mix of international cuisine, with influences from our neighbors. We’re surrounded by Italy and Austria, and obviously close to Bosnia and Herzegovina, which has a different culinary profile.”

You may be interested to read: Where to Find the Most Rare & Expensive Food in the World

A treat for guests, from sunrise to sunset

The ultimate iteration of 1920’s decadence, the Oleander Terrace at the Esplanade offers stunning views across the city, and provides the perfect setting for some enjoyable people watching. A preferred spot for elegant breakfasts, high society lunching, and music and jazz evenings with a stylish Champagne bar. “To stay in the Esplanade Hotel and have a breakfast in the morning on the Oleander Terrace is considered something special,” says Ivica.

 “And in the evening, to relax, the place to be is definitely the Esplanade 1925 Lounge & Cocktail Bar for the signature cocktails.” Run by some of the best Croatia’s mixologists the bar offers an enticing range of cocktails dating back to the days of the 1920’s Flapper.

You may also like: Pearls of the Adriatic: Step Aboard Europe’s Most Glamorous Cruise

The secret to exceptional service lies in the people

When staying at the Esplanade, each guest is treated as a VIP by attentive and professional staff. “To offer such exceptional service, we focus on finding the right people,” explains Ivica. “We are not necessarily focusing on hospitality experience as we wish to mold them in the Esplanade way – we look for someone with passion.

“Not only love and passion for guests and the hospitality industry, but people who have a connection with the hotel, are proud to work here and willing to do their part to justify our enduring reputation. This takes a special type of person.

“We also empower people to be brave enough to make the special service, to not be afraid to be spontaneous and try something new to satisfy our guests when required.”

You may also like to read: Connect With the Natural World Through These Exclusive Experiences

Royal guests and dignitaries

While no two days are the same when working in a hotel, some stand out as special for their own reasons. “We often host state leaders, presidents and royal family members,” says Ivica. “They’re always greeted by myself.

“One day I was waiting, with the Royal assistant, for a Queen and Prince in the lobby. They were attending a lunch at the Presidential Office and, as per protocol, timing was of the utmost importance.  As the Queen and the Prince stepped out of the elevator, we realized that the Prince and the Royal assistant were wearing the same tie. Definitely against protocol!

“There was no time for the Prince to return to the room and change. So, realizing what had happened and thinking quick I just took my tie and gave it to the to the royal assistant. I didn’t think much more of it, but when they came back to the hotel they were talking about the lunch and were saying how I saved the protocol. But it’s all in a day’s work at a hotel such as this.”

You may also be interested in: After Hours: Travel Like a VIP With These Exclusive Experiences

The Esplanade Hotel Zagreb is part of the city

It is said that of Zagreb that ‘life is lived on the streets of the city itself, with public art, street food, and majestic green parks delighting locals and tourists alike in all four seasons.’ As well as being an enchanting Croatian walled city, one of the fabulous things about the capital city is that the region is lush with nature parks.

The Esplanade is perfectly placed to explore the city – just one more reason to select this iconic establishment when considering where to stay in Zagreb. Ivica tells us “it is an important part of Zagreb’s upper town.” One of Zagreb’s main attractions, the historic old town, Upper Town (Gornji Grad) is a myriad of cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and iconic landmarks like St. Mark’s Church. “Here you can feel really a special history. It’s so preserved that it’s still feels like 100 years ago.” Yet the city is credited as being young and playful at heart.

“Zagreb is a big and small city,” he continues. “Almost everything is within walking distance. So, it is very relaxing for the people to explore. There are a lot of small museums and interesting places, but nothing particular that you have to visit, that is what is so nice about it. It’s very romantic everywhere and there are a lot of coffee shops where people sit outside and watch the movie of life unfold around you.”

You may also enjoy: Sun, Sand and Sequins: Why Summer is the Best Time to Visit These Glamorous Coastal Cities

A symbol of Croatia

“We’re proud to represent Zagreb to the world,” says Ivica. “But even more that we represent Croatia. There are a lot of nice hotels in this beautiful country, but there is only one hotel that everybody knows about. If you ask your taxi driver or whoever you meet which hotel is the best in in Croatia, even they have never been for themselves they will say The Esplanade. Even those not from this country.

“Every day is history, and every day is special. Each and every one of our guests are exceptional and make each day memorable. I’ve spent 31 years in the hotel, but every day I’ll see something new, I’ll never grow tired of the Esplanade.”

To experience the magic of the Hotel Esplanade, Zagreb for yourself and enjoy the ultimate Croatian vacation, take a look at our sensational Croatia & The Dalmatian Coast luxury tour.

No journey to Italy is complete without walking sun drenched vineyards and sipping limited edition vintages. For a taste of Tuscany to savor forever you’re invited to the charming Guardastelle Estate in San Gimignino to join the owners for a personal and private wine tasting tour.

We had the privilege to speak with Fausto, owner and wine producer of the Guardastelle Estate to learn what goes into producing a certified wine, harvest predictions and how to perfect the art of wine tasting.

Discover this on: Ultimate Italy

Exclusive wine, with a personal touch

“Guardastelle Estate is considered one of the smallest establishments in the area,” Fausto explains. “We have 12 acres of vineyards plus five acres of olive trees from which we also produce extra virgin olive oil.

“We produce five wines in small quantities so, we are very exclusive. For two of our vintages, we produce about 6000 bottles each, and only 3000 for the other three types. And they are only available here – you won’t find our wines in stores, restaurants or the nearest town.

“At Guardastelle, as a boutique winery we’ve always been focused on people coming to our farm, to see firsthand the vineyards and try the wines. Each bears the DOCG certification, a sign of excellence and the most important certification of Italian wines.”

For travel inspiration read our Italy destination guide

DOCG – the elite classification

DOCG or Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita is the is the highest classification Italian wines can be awarded. The classification means that there are controlled production methods (controllata) and guaranteed wine quality (garantita) with each bottle.

This includes regulations such as no irrigation, maximum vineyard elevation, and regulations on ageing and maximum alcohol levels.

A private tour

As a guest of Luxury Gold, you’ll enjoy a private tour of the vineyards and the wine cellar. You’ll hear all about the production process and enjoy a taste of Tuscany. “We’ll explain what kind of varieties we have, and why we have these varieties relating to the certification to the DOCG and part of the production.

“For the tasting we present three wines from the current the vintage. These are usually the three DOCGs – the vernaccia white wine which is the local specialty, and the chiantis.”

You may also enjoy: Making it personal: How Travel Concierge Anna elevates your Italy experience

A boutique family business

“This is a family business, so we are involved in all the processes since from the winemaking to the tasting,” says Fausto. “This also dictates how to make the wines. We are a very small farm, so it is not possible to harvest the grapes with the machine for example, so we do it by hand.”

“We’ve no official record but architects say that the farmhouse is probably from the middle of the 1400’s. This is because that the walls were made with a specific technique which is the same used to build the famous towers of San Gimignano town.

“My wife’s family purchased it in the middle of the 1980’s. From the young age of 21, she restarted the vineyard and wine production with three classic DOCG wines that she has now produced for almost 30 years. The estate has also produced extra virgin olive oil from the start.

“In 2017 we started to work on a couple of new wines which were born in 2021. So now we have the five typologies of wines.”

You may also like: This little gelateria in San Gimignano may just serve the best gelato in all of Italy

True Chianti and Vernaccia

“San Gimignano is in the chianti wine region, a wine which has been produced in Italy for about five centuries,” says Fausto. “To preserve the original characteristics of Italian winemaking and its wines, the government introduced regulations to keep a high standard quality product. This is the DOCG and is the certification that allows us to call our wine chianti.”

“Chianti must be made with a minimum of 75% of Sangiovese (a grape), and then there are few other varieties that we are allowed to use to blend. Even though it is possible to make a chianti from 100% Sangiovese, usually they are made with a blend of grapes.”

All the wines produced by Tenuta Guardastelle bear this important DOCG certification. Some 78 red wines across Italy (including chianti) are on the list. There is however only one white wine included, the Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a native grape variety with ancient historical origins. Renowned for its remarkable ageing capacity, it makes an excellent aperitif, pairs well with legumes and is exquisite with white meats.

You may also like: Harry’s Bars: The Story of Europe’s Two Most Glamorous Watering Holes

Manual harvest

“The DOCG regulations do not dictate how to harvest, whether by hand or machinery, or how to press the grapes. So, these methods depend entirely on the size of the farm,” Fausto explains.

“As we are small, we do a manual harvest, which is also better anyway for the grape’s quality. This helps to produce a natural, rather high sugar content in the berries, so that the DOCG standards are easily met.”

You may also enjoy: Award-winning Argentine wines you must try on your next trip

It’s all in the timing

“The DOGC does regulate the days that you can harvest, although the time frame is very large. The time to harvest is dependent on the varieties and it depends a lot on the weather,” Fausto says. “We know by the experience that the harvest time is around the beginning of September for the white grapes and middle third week of September for the red varieties.

“So, a few days before the planned harvest we start to control the grapes. We go in the vineyards and pick a few from all over the field. The grapes are then mixed together, because different parts of the vineyards can have slightly different maturation, before making an average of the sugar content.”

“We also taste them – with experience you know from their softness if they’re ready. Then we look at the weather forecast to see that maybe these grapes need a week but if the weather is going to be bad, then we may need to harvest them in a couple of days.

“This, a taste of Tuscany, is probably one of the best parts. Because it’s almost ready. It’s such a great feeling – every year is a new project with a new vintage.”

You may enjoy: The ultimate Luxury Gold souvenir guide to Europe

Time to mature – a unique minerality

“Some of these wines take up to three years to be ready,” Fausto explains. “So, we will harvest the year’s vintages around the start of October, and the white will start to serve as a wine tasting in almost two years. And the Chianti about four years.

“This is our personal choice because of the composition of the soil. Here the soil has a high minerality that gives a very high freshness to the wine, so it needs longer to mature.

“So, for example, not all the vernacchio’s of the area are the same, and we usually don’t have the youngest of the vernacchio possible to taste. Because the other Tuscan wineries and vineyards don’t have such a high minerality, the life of their vernaccio is much shorter.”

You may also enjoy reading: Wine and Dine: A Guide to Private Wine Pairing in Italy’s Most Exquisite Vineyards

Tasting tips

“We always guide guests through the tasting, a taste of Tuscany” says Fausto. “We explain the three types of analysis. First is the visual, to check the color if the wine is clear or cloudy, and we show you how to do it with the white napkin on the back of the glass.

“Then comes smell. Here we don’t say everything because we could stay a full day talking about it! We do tell you the categories that you can smell in a wine, depending on the variety. For example, vegetables or fruit. Then lastly, we have taste and we help you get deeper into the analysis. Every wine actually had different characteristics, or even if similar there are always some slight differences.

You may also like: Dive into luxury at these incredible hotel pools

Practice makes perfect

“Wine tasting is like learning a new language,” Fausto concludes. “You need to train and to try many different wines to try to understand the different flavors and tastes that different varieties can produce. The characteristics of, for example, a Chardonnay grape, when grown in Tuscany or other parts of Italy or the world are not the same. So keep practicing!”

To delight in a taste of Tuscany for yourself in this stunning chianti wine region, take a look at our Ultimate Italy small group journey

There are several bars across the world that carry the Harry’s Bar name, but only two of them are true originals – Harry’s Bar in Venice and Harry’s New York Bar in Paris. While the two bars were both opened in the early 20th century, created several iconic cocktails, and have been frequented by some of the 20th century’s biggest icons, that’s where their similarities end. The two bars are actually not connected in any way, besides sharing a name – and the love of Ernest Hemingway. 

We delve into the different stories of the original Harry’s Bars, and how they came to be two of Europe’s most glamorous watering holes. 

Read more: Our Favorite Classic Cocktails, and the Timeless Hotels To Try Them At

Photo credit: @harrysbar_theoriginal

Photo credit: @cipriani

Harry’s New York Bar – Paris, France

Disregard the misleading name – Harry’s New York Bar is a true Parisian institution. Nestled in the heart of Paris, not far from the iconic Opéra Garnier, Harry’s New York Bar stands as a monument to history, culture, and the fine art of mixology. 

Founded in 1911 by American jockey Tod Sloan, the bar was originally called “The New York Bar.” Sloan had the interior shipped over from a bar in New York, giving it an authentic American feel right in the heart of Paris. Harry MacElhone, a young barman, took over in 1923 and added his first name to the title. The legendary “Harry’s New York Bar” was born, and it’s still owned and run by the MacElhone family.

Over the years, it became the glamorous watering hole of choice for expatriates, tourists, and locals who appreciated the taste of classic cocktails and the allure of American jazz. Today, visiting this century-old establishment is like stepping back in time. The ambient lighting, original wooden panels, over 400 classic drinks, and the familiar tinkling of cocktail glasses transport you to an era when Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and Porter were regular patrons.

Visit Harry’s New York Bar in Paris on: Ultimate Southern France

Photo credit: @harrysbar_theoriginal

Photo credit: @harrysbar_theoriginal

A cocktail atelier

Harry’s New York Bar was the birthplace of several iconic drinks. The most famous among them is the Bloody Mary, said to have been concocted in the 1920s by Fernand Petiot, a bartender at Harry’s. Their impressive cocktail repertoire also includes the White Lady, the French 75 and the Side Car, legacies of the skill and creativity of the bartenders who’ve graced Harry’s counters.

Read more: 9 essential cocktails to drink (and where to drink them) in New Orleans

Photo credit: @harrysbar_theoriginal

Photo credit: @harrysbar_theoriginal

Cultural epicenter

This Parisian institution was a jazz oasis and something of a second home for the Lost Generation. Throughout the roaring ‘20s, the bar played host to a stream of literary and artistic figures, including Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, and Humphrey Bogart. 

With a crowd like that, it’s little wonder Harry’s New York Bar has been immortalized in popular culture. Hemingway mentioned the bar in “A Moveable Feast” and “The Sun Also Rises.” The famous song “I Love Paris” by Cole Porter was supposedly penned in the downstairs piano bar.

Read more: Hiding in Plain Sight: Incredible Artworks You Can Discover at Luxury Gold Hotels

Photo credit: @harrysbar_theoriginal

Photo credit: @harrysbar_theoriginal

Harry’s Bar – Venice, Italy

Ten years later and 690 miles away, another institution was born under the same name. Located just a few steps away from Piazza San Marco in the heart of Venice, stands the historic establishment, Harry’s Bar. Founded in 1931 by Giuseppe Cipriani, Harry’s Bar isn’t just a watering hole; it’s a legend of 20th-century history, literature and art, and Venetian culinary traditions. 

The story of Harry’s Bar in Venice began with a chance encounter. A young Giuseppe Cipriani, then a bartender at Venice’s Hotel Europa, extended a loan to a stranded American named Harry Pickering. When Pickering returned a few years later to repay Cipriani with interest, the two decided to invest in a small bar – and Harry’s Bar was born.

Discover Harry’s Bar in Venice on: Ultimate Italy

Photo credit: @cipriani

Photo credit: @cipriani

Birthplace of the Bellini

While many come to Harry’s Bar for its history, others come for a taste of its legendary Bellini. A mix of Prosecco and peach purée, this refreshing cocktail was invented by Giuseppe Cipriani himself in the 1940s. Inspired by a 15th-century Venetian painting by Giovanni Bellini, the drink’s pink glow reminded Cipriani of the artist’s palette. The Bellini has since become an iconic cocktail, enjoyed worldwide but never quite as special as when sipped in its birthplace.

Read more: Dine, Sleep, Do: How to spend a blissful 24 hours in Venice

Photo credit: @cipriani

Photo credit: @cipriani

Cultural icon

Since its inception, Harry’s Bar attracted a roster of artists, writers, and celebrities. The likes of Ernest Hemingway, Katherine Hepburn, Charlie Chaplin, Truman Capote, Frank Lloyd Wright, and Orson Welles were regular patrons. Hemingway, in particular, considered it his favorite watering hole, often describing its intimate atmosphere in his works. The bar’s drawcard wasn’t just the alcohol or the delicious meals, but the sense of camaraderie and creativity. Conversations sparked here would often find their way into novels, films, and art.

Despite its celebrity visitors and renowned cocktails, the beauty of Harry’s Bar today lies in its simplicity. With crisp linen tablecloths and wooden chairs, the original decor allows its rich history to shine. The food remains a winner too, with sumptuous risottos and fresh seafood paying tribute to the city’s culinary scene. 

In 2001, the Italian Ministry for Cultural Affairs declared Harry’s Bar a national landmark. While the designation is a nod to its historical significance, the true testament is the endless crowd of visitors who flock to its doors year after year. 

Read more: The Isle of Dreams: How to Spend the Perfect Day in Capri

Photo credit: @cipriani

Photo credit: @cipriani

The Legacy of Harry’s Bars

While the two bars had completely different origins, they shared many of the same values (and patrons!) arising from the Lost Generation of the early 20th century; music, art, literature, and good company and stories shared over excellent food and drinks. 

These bars aren’t just places to grab a cocktail. They’re historic institutions that inspired literary and artistic giants and global gastronomic traditions. They’re a portal to a bygone era, where the walls tell tales of Jazz Age soirees, literary debates and the art of a well-made drink. 

As both Paris and Venice continue to involve, Harry’s Bars remain true to their roots, reminding us of the timeless glamor of a great bar. The next time you’re in Paris or Venice, be sure to swing by Harry’s, order a classic cocktail, and soak up a century’s worth of stories.

Read more: Wine and Dine: A Guide to Private Wine Pairing in Italy’s Most Exquisite Vineyards

Banner photo credit: @harrysbar_theoriginal