Keen, cultured visitors to Stockholm will almost certainly have Fotografiska on their hit list. The museum, that is – one of the Swedish capital’s top sights, a temple to contemporary photography and an HQ for modern photographers and experts the world over. But not every visitor to the city knows that the building, a former Art Nouveau style customs house, also houses one of Sweden’s most sustainable restaurants.
Known simply as “The Restaurant”, it’s helmed by the innovative, boundary-pushing Executive Chef Martin Wall. “My role here is as ‘planet keeper’,” says Wall. “I try to keep our philosophy forward-thinking and make sure we do as much as we can, sustainability wise”. Guests on Luxury Gold’s Timeless Scandinavia tour will visit this extraordinary sustainable restaurant during their time in Stockholm – in the meantime, we asked Martin to tell us a little about how he merges a luxury museum experience with a sustainable ethos.
“The Restaurant” Executive Chef Martin Wall
The Formula
“The Restaurant at Fotografiska is plant-forward,” explains Wall. “We try to push the boundaries and understand nature”. His team is on a mission, he says, to “prove that [sustainable restaurants] can be high-end gastronomy and sustainable at the same time”. With a firm zero-waste policy and seasonally-led ingredients, Wall’s team curates set menus of different sizes – three or five courses starting with an appetizer of the day, say – as well as sharp, unusual beverage pairings (one popular selection is “Nordic and funky”, featuring some excellent Scandinavan wines and ingredients). “We normally say that the farmers are the bosses of the restaurant. They decide what’s on the menu – we want the best, today, from nature,” adds Wall. Dishes might include blue mussels with seaweed and root vegetables, or lamb with cucumber, garlic and caramelised cream. It’s contemporary but appealing; the ingredients are the star of the show.
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A dish at The Restaurant at Fotografiska, Stockholm
The “S” Word
Though luxury travellers are more aware than ever before of the need to balance incredible travel experiences with an awareness of impact on the planet, Wall feels the very word “sustainability” has perhaps been overused, or lost some of its power in recent years. “Sustainable dining has been up and down since the pandemic,” he ponders. “I think the word [itself] is the big problem; it doesn’t have the same effect as before. So we’re more talking about ‘consciousness’: to be out there and to be aware of what’s going on, to try to keep pushing forward.”
What does that consciousness mean to him? “It’s important for us to be out there, to make people conscious of the world and to show them and guide them to a more sustainable way. It is possible to do it.” To be a thought leader among sustainable restaurants in the region, this could be through highlighting the best vegetables or foraged plants available that month on the menu, or getting creative with zero-waste principles. Initiatives involve using apple cores in desserts or converting onion peelings to compost to nurture future kitchen vegetables.
The Restaurant at Fotografiska, Stockholm
Award-winning Dishes
The Restaurant at Fotografiska was awarded a Michelin Green Star in 2020, and has maintained it for every year since. “They introduced the Green Michelin star a few years ago,” says Wall. “It means we’re acknowledged for our sustainable work.” Venues are awarded these rare stamps of approval for having high ethical and environmental standards, from provenance to suppliers and employing locals, as well as combining culinary excellence with an eco ethos. The team’s forward thinking also won them three circles by the 360°Eat Guide. “The 360 Award is big here in the Nordic countries, but it’s all about social and planet-minded sustainability, so it’s a big award for us and we’re so proud to be in it.” While it’s a joy to receive accolades, says Wall, it can also place the burden on the team of keeping such a high standard. But he’s up for the challenge. “It’s a huge role to take on, to make sure you understand the planet the best to make the gastronomy line up with the future,” says Wall. “My plan is to [always] be a little bit better tomorrow than today.”
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The Experience
“When they come here, guests can expect to be ‘here and now’,” says Wall of the museum-restaurant space, which occupies a large-windowed, waterfront dining room with – naturally – great photography on the walls. “It’s not all about what’s on the plate – it’s why it’s on the plate.” Everything presented in sustainable restaurants like his, he says, should be centred around provenance, slow food, zero waste principles and great suppliers. It should represent how great cooking can be done in the age of sustainability.
It’s only when asked for his favourite dish of the moment that Wall pauses for thought. “That’s a tricky one. In Sweden right now, it’s been a long, hard winter, so the asparagus feels like the sun, and the future.” He wants guests to become more conscious of what sustainable restaurant can do, but in the moment, to rest and relax, and be completely present with the food in front of them. “We proudly present the way of the future, so you can calmly come here and wine and dine. We’ve been doing the thinking, so here’s the place where you can relax and enjoy – we’ve done the work for you,” he says.
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