As a lifelong Londoner, one of the things I love most about the city is that – truly – you can wear what you like. This is the city of diversity, self-expression and creativity – be who you are and feel good doing it. So, why does it feel so easy to get it wrong? Possibly because it’s also the city of the poorly ventilated London Underground, relentless drizzle, and long, uneven walks. And because it’s English. Which means you never know when a unexpected Anglicism is going to catch you unawares. Let’s get into some of the nuances that dictate precisely what to wear to dinner in London. We’ll finish with some dos and don’ts.
How to Dress For Dinner in London:
Dress codes
If we start by turning our attention to some of the older, classic restaurants, what do we learn? At Claridge’s, “we do not operate any dress code, however we find most of our guests choose smart casual dress”. At The Ritz, “gentlemen are required to wear a jacket and tie” in the main restaurant, while “shorts, trainers and sportswear are not permitted in any of the hotel’s restaurants or bars”. At Rules, “whilst jacket or tie are not required, we prefer smart dress”.
In a lot of ways, these are the easy ones. You probably wouldn’t even consult the dress code before taking afternoon tea at the Ritz, you’d just know you were embarking on something luxe, and you’d want to dress accordingly. The direction that luxury takes you in is really up to you.
Buttoned up pockets:
There are some pockets of the city that take dress codes more seriously. For instance, there was a “tightening up” of the dress code at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea recently. It now reads:
“We would like all of our guests to feel free to express their own individual style however, we do ask guests to avoid shorts, tracksuits, hoodies and hats. Smart trainers are fine. We know lots of our guests like to dress smartly which we appreciate. Ultimately we want every guest to feel at home.”
I appreciate the distinction between “smart trainers” and the ones you wear to the gym, or “sportswear”. I think it’s important to know that comfort counts for a lot in London, and you know the difference between one sneaker and another.
Even restaurants frequented by royalty have a smart-casual policy these days, though in these corners of London (Mayfair, Kensington), they can have their own ideas about what that actually means – some state that they prefer a jacket over a shirt, some specify “tailored shorts” – but these are few and far between.
Feeling fancy
In fact the reality is that most high end restaurants in London are so relaxed about clothes, you might want to seek out some addressed that are special enough to flex your fanciest looks. If you’re looking for restaurants with stunning surrounds, consider Berners Tavern for glamorous chandeliers and cornicing to befit a stately home, Bob Bob Ricard for pie and champagne in sumptuous booths, The Dover for seventies Sophia Loren-style splendour or Booking Office 1869 for vast interiors and indoor palm trees.
Dining in London: Dos and Don’ts
Dos:
Black
There is no need to wear black if you usually don’t. But if you own a chic black jacket, dress or pair of pants that makes you feel fabulous, consider it the key to your capsule wardrobe. You can go in any direction you please from there.
A good coat (or jacket, or indeed shacket)
If your restaurant manager is kind enough to help you slip your coat from your shoulders on to a hanger, you want to feel really good watching it disappear into the closet. In London, for obvious reasons, you cannot underestimate the power of a good coat – it almost doesn’t matter what’s underneath.
Comfy shoes
As we’ve established, even Claridge’s wants you to feel at home. Nothing mars an unforgettable meal like a pair of blisters. Wear the good trainers, or the boots you know like the back of your … foot.
A woollen jumper
When autumn arrives, knitwear is practically a sport in London. Whether it’s a classic navy cashmere number, or a bright, oversize piece, wearing a jumper you love is the cosiest way to express yourself, and to feel fully ensconced at the table.
Don’ts:
Grey
I’m sure Stanley Tucci could pull it off, but we don’t need to try. If there’s one thing we have enough of here, it’s grey – in the sky and in the hue of people’s sun-deprived skin as winter prattles on. Please consider Londoners by leaving your grey suits at home.
Tiny umbrellas
I’ve lost more of those soggy minis under restaurant tables than I can bear to think about, but I have a big, gold leopard print (hard to miss) one that’s been with me for almost 10 years.
Worry
You will not “look like a tourist” – there is no such thing here. Even the classic look (cycling shorts, baggy souvenir t-shirt, socks and trainers) looks great in the right establishment (not one that hates sportswear). And everyone is using Google Maps to navigate Soho (although when in Rome – or London – Citymapper is the preferred app of choice).
Overthink
Londoners can smell outfit insecurity a mile off. You just pulled this old thing out of the suitcase and threw it on – right?
What about Crocs and flops?
One has to operate some discretion when it comes to open toes and so forth. It’s a no to your old Havaianas, a yes to your key lime platform Crocs. But that’s just common sense.
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